We were thrilled to have Regis Forey, of Domaine Forey, visit us in Hong Kong last week (the first time he had been to the city in 30 years!) To celebrate his presence, and of course his wines, we held two dinners at Otto e Mezzo Bombana, the Michelin creation of Italian chef Umberto Bombana. The first dinner was under the theme of Gaudichots, the 1er Cru appellation which lies at the edges of the Grand Cru “La Tache”. Allen Meadows has quoted that Forey produces his favourite Gaudichots, so we were excited to try 8 different vintages over the evening. The second dinner was a Retrospective. We looked back as far as 1999 through the 1er Cru appellation of Nuits St Goerges, as well as the Grand Crus Echezeaux and Clos de Vougeot. Regis and his wife Chantal were both ideal guests, and extremely informative about their methods and vineyards. Both dinners were great, and we even rounded each of with a blind tasting of a Gaudichots, which was never guessed, but was great in the spirit of discovering more about Regis’ range.
The first flight of the evening was 2015 against 2013. To be honest, the 2013 didn’t really stand a chance. Firstly, given that it was such a challenging vintage, and secondly, as the 2015 was such an excellent vintage, the wine was incredibly lush and open, but will soon shut down for a few years, so we were happy to catch it now.
The next flight saw the 2012 alongside the 2011. The 2012 was very elegant and surprisingly approachable, with great finesse, and very drinkable, even for so young. The 2011 was far more restrained. Being a very cold year you could really sense the depth of terroir and how they vines would have really pushed themselves to to get all the nutrients from the soil – a surprisingly big wine, very earthy, wonderful depth of fruit but still very young and has a long life ahead.
The third pairing was 2009 with 2006. 2009 was a wonderful year, very hot and fairly easy to make stunning wines- and you could tell, powerful and elegant simultaneously, although still a baby so it will be interesting to see where this wine goes. 2006 was delicious, drinking beautifully at the moment and will still last for some years to come. That said, 2006 was a challenging year so it wont be around for decades.
The evening finished with 2005 opposite 2003. The 2005 was like a cage fighter- a huge, muscular, broad beast that was still extremely tight and didn’t really show any signs of loosening up throughout evening. This is without doubt built for longevity- it should last for decades, but personally I’d re-visit it in 10 years time and see where it is – an absolute belter! The 2003 was gorgeous, for drinkability this was the wine of the night. Wonderful elegance, you could sense the stunning secondary charateristics shining through, and tell the heat of the vintage as there was an abundance of open, lush fruit, yet still with good acidity (which many 03’s lack). It was earthy, had wonderful depth of fruit and was just simply delicious!
– Hugo Spencer
Forey Retrospective Dinner
The evening began with 4 Nuit St Georges “ Les St Georges” 1er Cru, served in two flights. To begin we had the 2012 alongside the 2005. The young 2012 gave out beautiful smells of bright fruit, but this wine will benefit from extensive cellaring to reach its full potential. Of course, the 2005 is one of the legendary vintages, which can be easily distinguished through its strong aroma. The wine itself displays ‘wow’ factors, such as in depth red fruit expression, a unforgettable caramelised sweet note, ending with a wonderful long after taste.
These were followed by the slightly more mature vintages 1999 and 2002. These older vintages displayed more bitter chocolate notes, which can be expected. The obvious fruit notes in the 2002 led to it being overall more approachable. Over the dinner, Regis explained the superior reputation that “Les St Georges” holds in Nuits St Georges, and is expected to one day become a Grand Cru. Of the four, it was the 2002 that shone out, one of the guest even announcing it to be his favourite of the evening!
Next we moved onto the Grand Crus, beginning with Clos de Vougeot vintages 2010, 2006 and 2003, all served together. All three showed an extensive expression of fruit, and a rich mouth feel. The 2010 displayed noticeable wood flavours, while both the 2006 and 2003 were bursting with aroma. The 2006 carried a heavier body and more focus on dark fruits, which allowed it to just pip 2010 to the post of these three.
We finished with three vintages of Echezeaux; 2010, 2007 and 2003. The Echezeaux displayed vibrant fruit on the nose, as well as floral tones, mild hints of spice and diminished mineral notes and all three wines were soft and elegant. Between the 3 vintages 2003 had the highest acidity, 2007 was extremely vibrant however 2010 bloomed like a flower on the nose and with maturity will undoubtedly be excellent.
– Vincent Chau