Last night’s dinner was held at Épure, a Michelin starred restaurant in Tsim Sha Tsui. The gold ornamental décor of the room was fitting for the prestigious subject of the night- Domaine Sylvain Cathiard et Fils. This prestigious (mainly Vosne Romanée based) producer has been quickly rising in popularity in Burgundy. They must attribute some of their fame to their incredibly good parcels, with Malconsort, the illustrious Romanee Saint Vivant and Suchots within their portfolio. And it was here we began the plan for our dinner. We would showcase the four best appellations from Domaine Cathiard, with two vintages of each.
The vintages represented a shift in the domaine, between a time when Sylvain managed the vineyards, and finally when his son, Sebastien, took over in 2011. This was of course a very reputable estate before 2005, when Sebastien joined. However the quality has consistently been rising since Sebastien took over- with the prices to match. The main difference he has implemented in the winemaking is increasing his caution in the use of oak. Gradually he is reducing the amount of new oak used with the view to producing more terroir driven wines.
Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Murgers 2008
Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Murgers 2012
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots 2008
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots 2012
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 2006
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 2012
Romanee St Vivant Grand Cru 2007
Romanee St Vivant Grand Cru 2012
At the end of the night, the votes were tallied and the winner(s) were announced. That’s right, there was a tie! Between Romanee Saint Vivant 2007 and Malconsorts 2012. The RSV opened incredibly well, while the Malconsorts, with it’s amazing structure and layers showed incredible potential for ageing. However the overall reaction to the wines was incredibly positive, with discussion throughout the evening rife about the nuances which separate father and son in the glass. Certainly an intriguing topic- even more intriguing in a few years to repeat with Sebastien’s ‘13s and ‘14s, once he has well established his techniques in the vineyard. We look forward to repeating!